HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN VTEC LIGHT..!!
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HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN VTEC LIGHT!
OVERVIEW: How it works.
First off we know that the VTEC kicks in somewhere around 5500RPM. Well, there is a wire from the ECU that sends a 12Volt signal to a solenoid that pumps oil to a pin that locks in the VTEC rocker arm to the other rocker arms. WAAAAA!! So what we do is take that 12 volts and put it to use for other things! Since the gauge cluster lights are triggered by a negative signal (which is backwards from normal) we need to reverse the polarity of the 12 Volt positive signals from the ECU.
In comes an electronic relay (If you don't know what one is, this will help). A relay is basically an electronic switch. When you send an electrical charge to the coil in a relay, it basically makes a circuit complete. Thus a NORMALLY OPEN RELAY. The switch is normally OPEN (no signal can travel through It.) until you send a current to it to make it close (Completing the circuit). Most relays will have 4 pins. Two for the 12Volt current to trigger the switch, and two for an input and output on the circuit. This way, when the VTEC kicks, it sends a 12Volt signal to the RELAY, which completes the negative circuit to the light on the dash. BING! There is light! Make sense? Sure it does!
It is recommended that you have a little experience with electronics or have someone who knows help you. Read this over first before getting into it! On to the install!
What you need:
• 1 - 12V coil (Normally open) Relay. Low Power consumption. (like 500ma or less) (Radio Shack) - ~$3-$5 (if you get a part number email it to me, I had one laying around)
• 1 - Dash Light (Honda Part) Part num: 78180-SH2-004 doesn’t know yet. If you look on the back of the speedometer assembly it is just like the cruise light. ( I used it until the other one arrives) - ~$5-$6
• 10-15ft of 16 or 18 gage wire. (Radio Shack) - $1-$2
• Black electrical tape.
• Soldering iron and solder.
• 1 - Phillips screw driver.
• 1 - Exacta knife, or sharp knife.
• 10MM socket wrench and extension.
• Some Super Glue.
Step 1: Removing the speedometer assembly
Remove the Speedo assembly by taking out the 2 screws above the assembly. Just fold up out of the way.
Next remove the 3 screws that hold the assembly into place. One top middle. One right (about 2:00) and one left (about 10:00).
The whole assembly should come out. You will have 4 wiring harnesses holding it in. 2-big, 2-small on the left. Press on the little thumb locks and gently slide out each one. You can now remove the assembly. Place in a safe place.
Step 2: Running wire from speedometer.
Notice on the right side big wiring harness that there is a blank space where a wire would be. (Second space from right)
Splice one end of the 18 gauge wire and jam it in that hole until you can see it from the bottom.
Put a SMALL drop of supper glue where the wire enters the harness to make sure it doesn't come loose.
Run the rest of the wire down through the console area to the passenger foot well.
Step 3: Adding light to Speedo assembly.
Find a clean well lit work area. Look on the back of the speedometer and you will see a Gray knob (little light from the Cruise control). From the back it will be the one on the left side. (This is the part you get from Honda). Remove it for reference. Above it you will see a place (Un-cut) like the cruse light hole is. Cut out that hole with the Exacta like the CRUISE one is cut.
Then scrape the green plastic stuff off the copper connection like the cruise light hole is.
Put the new light in, and replace the CRUISE Light.
If you don't have a faceplate you may want to take the plastic one out, and drill a hole so that the light will show through. (Perhaps scrape off the black paint?) You will notice that there is already a red light filter in front of the area we added the light! :)
Replace the speedometer assembly, and wiring harnesses. (Basically put it all back together! :)
Step 4: Test your work.
You now should have a wire coming out from the dash somewhere. Just to make sure all is going good so far. Start you car and Touch the other end of the wire to the chassis somewhere. As long as it is a grounded area you will see the light come on! (I used the negative area on the cigarette lighter.)
If the light comes on, and the car is running your in good shape! If not, retrace your steps!
Step 5: Wiring the relay to the ECU.
Remove the plastic screw at the top of the passenger side foot well and peel the carpet back to reveal the ECU and ECU harness. You can pull back the plastic on the door kick panel to get slack.
Carefully remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the ECU in. Slowly remove the gold colored plate that secures the wiring harness (Black thing) to the ECU. Be sure to loosen the green clips of the wring harness so the plate will slide off clean.
Now you should see the wires coming out of the ECU. Locate the ORANGE/WHITE wire (ORANGE being the primary color, and WHITE being the secondary or stripe). It should be close to the right side of the harnesses.
CAREFULLY shave the plastic off a small section of that wire to revile the metal of the wire. DO NOT CUT IT!! Just piggy back off it!
Solder a 6" or so wire to it and wrap with electrical tape GOOD! If it shorts! ECU goes BYE!
Replace the metal cover of the ECU and secure to the black wiring harness. (Make sure your wire is coming out the top!) Bolt the ECU back into place.
Now, solder that wire from the ECU to the positive pin of the RELAY (Refer to the pin out of the relay).
Take two pieces of wire and solder them to the negative of the RELAY (Refer to the pin out of the relay). Run one wire to ground. (The bolt holding the ECU in place will work.) And the other to one side of the SWITCH PIN on the RELAY. (Refer to the pin out of the relay).
Now take the wire from the speedometer cluster and hide it under the carpet. Run it to the RELAY/ECU area. (Cut to length.) Solder this to the other SWITCH PIN on the RELAY.
Tape up the relay wires good! Place a dot of supper glue to the side of the relay, and press firmly to the side of the ECU in a location that won’t be kicked by someone's foot. DONE?! GOOD! Clean up the wires, and replace the carpet.
Step 6: Test your work.
Start the car and drive it until the engine come up to temperature (Middle of the temp gage.). (Remember, the VTEC does not kick in when the car is cold!)
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN VTEC LIGHT!
OVERVIEW: How it works.
First off we know that the VTEC kicks in somewhere around 5500RPM. Well, there is a wire from the ECU that sends a 12Volt signal to a solenoid that pumps oil to a pin that locks in the VTEC rocker arm to the other rocker arms. WAAAAA!! So what we do is take that 12 volts and put it to use for other things! Since the gauge cluster lights are triggered by a negative signal (which is backwards from normal) we need to reverse the polarity of the 12 Volt positive signals from the ECU.
In comes an electronic relay (If you don't know what one is, this will help). A relay is basically an electronic switch. When you send an electrical charge to the coil in a relay, it basically makes a circuit complete. Thus a NORMALLY OPEN RELAY. The switch is normally OPEN (no signal can travel through It.) until you send a current to it to make it close (Completing the circuit). Most relays will have 4 pins. Two for the 12Volt current to trigger the switch, and two for an input and output on the circuit. This way, when the VTEC kicks, it sends a 12Volt signal to the RELAY, which completes the negative circuit to the light on the dash. BING! There is light! Make sense? Sure it does!
It is recommended that you have a little experience with electronics or have someone who knows help you. Read this over first before getting into it! On to the install!
What you need:
• 1 - 12V coil (Normally open) Relay. Low Power consumption. (like 500ma or less) (Radio Shack) - ~$3-$5 (if you get a part number email it to me, I had one laying around)
• 1 - Dash Light (Honda Part) Part num: 78180-SH2-004 doesn’t know yet. If you look on the back of the speedometer assembly it is just like the cruise light. ( I used it until the other one arrives) - ~$5-$6
• 10-15ft of 16 or 18 gage wire. (Radio Shack) - $1-$2
• Black electrical tape.
• Soldering iron and solder.
• 1 - Phillips screw driver.
• 1 - Exacta knife, or sharp knife.
• 10MM socket wrench and extension.
• Some Super Glue.
Step 1: Removing the speedometer assembly
Remove the Speedo assembly by taking out the 2 screws above the assembly. Just fold up out of the way.
Next remove the 3 screws that hold the assembly into place. One top middle. One right (about 2:00) and one left (about 10:00).
The whole assembly should come out. You will have 4 wiring harnesses holding it in. 2-big, 2-small on the left. Press on the little thumb locks and gently slide out each one. You can now remove the assembly. Place in a safe place.
Step 2: Running wire from speedometer.
Notice on the right side big wiring harness that there is a blank space where a wire would be. (Second space from right)
Splice one end of the 18 gauge wire and jam it in that hole until you can see it from the bottom.
Put a SMALL drop of supper glue where the wire enters the harness to make sure it doesn't come loose.
Run the rest of the wire down through the console area to the passenger foot well.
Step 3: Adding light to Speedo assembly.
Find a clean well lit work area. Look on the back of the speedometer and you will see a Gray knob (little light from the Cruise control). From the back it will be the one on the left side. (This is the part you get from Honda). Remove it for reference. Above it you will see a place (Un-cut) like the cruse light hole is. Cut out that hole with the Exacta like the CRUISE one is cut.
Then scrape the green plastic stuff off the copper connection like the cruise light hole is.
Put the new light in, and replace the CRUISE Light.
If you don't have a faceplate you may want to take the plastic one out, and drill a hole so that the light will show through. (Perhaps scrape off the black paint?) You will notice that there is already a red light filter in front of the area we added the light! :)
Replace the speedometer assembly, and wiring harnesses. (Basically put it all back together! :)
Step 4: Test your work.
You now should have a wire coming out from the dash somewhere. Just to make sure all is going good so far. Start you car and Touch the other end of the wire to the chassis somewhere. As long as it is a grounded area you will see the light come on! (I used the negative area on the cigarette lighter.)
If the light comes on, and the car is running your in good shape! If not, retrace your steps!
Step 5: Wiring the relay to the ECU.
Remove the plastic screw at the top of the passenger side foot well and peel the carpet back to reveal the ECU and ECU harness. You can pull back the plastic on the door kick panel to get slack.
Carefully remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the ECU in. Slowly remove the gold colored plate that secures the wiring harness (Black thing) to the ECU. Be sure to loosen the green clips of the wring harness so the plate will slide off clean.
Now you should see the wires coming out of the ECU. Locate the ORANGE/WHITE wire (ORANGE being the primary color, and WHITE being the secondary or stripe). It should be close to the right side of the harnesses.
CAREFULLY shave the plastic off a small section of that wire to revile the metal of the wire. DO NOT CUT IT!! Just piggy back off it!
Solder a 6" or so wire to it and wrap with electrical tape GOOD! If it shorts! ECU goes BYE!
Replace the metal cover of the ECU and secure to the black wiring harness. (Make sure your wire is coming out the top!) Bolt the ECU back into place.
Now, solder that wire from the ECU to the positive pin of the RELAY (Refer to the pin out of the relay).
Take two pieces of wire and solder them to the negative of the RELAY (Refer to the pin out of the relay). Run one wire to ground. (The bolt holding the ECU in place will work.) And the other to one side of the SWITCH PIN on the RELAY. (Refer to the pin out of the relay).
Now take the wire from the speedometer cluster and hide it under the carpet. Run it to the RELAY/ECU area. (Cut to length.) Solder this to the other SWITCH PIN on the RELAY.
Tape up the relay wires good! Place a dot of supper glue to the side of the relay, and press firmly to the side of the ECU in a location that won’t be kicked by someone's foot. DONE?! GOOD! Clean up the wires, and replace the carpet.
Step 6: Test your work.
Start the car and drive it until the engine come up to temperature (Middle of the temp gage.). (Remember, the VTEC does not kick in when the car is cold!)
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