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<blockquote data-quote="kuroneko" data-source="post: 956044" data-attributes="member: 19668"><p>13btt has really gone indepth about the apex seals.</p><p>Typically, through normal wear and tear, 2mm (factory spec) seals will last around 110,000km for turbo rotaries, and around 160,000km non turbo (although both cases I have heard much higher). Basically, if you look after your RE, it will look after you.</p><p></p><p>And about this common misconception about the RE being "fragile", it is the biggest pile of horse shit I've ever hear. A rotor can take the thrashing, any time, any day. </p><p></p><p>So long as you </p><p>1) Give it sufficient warm up time from a cold start (1-2 mins should be good)</p><p>2) Have reliabilty mods (straight through exhaust, air filter, possibly a good aluminium radiator if it really gets hot, and obviously boost gage and aftermarket water temp)</p><p>3) MAINTAINENCE. Do your oil change, coolant top up, check spark plugs etc REGULARLY. Signs of rough running, etc, will be easier to solve early on (before it turns into a big/expensive problem)</p><p></p><p>There are 3 common things that could end in an engine failure:</p><p>1) Blown apex seal</p><p>2) Leaking O-rings/water rings</p><p>3) Leaking oil rings</p><p></p><p>Symptoms:</p><p>1) as described by 13btt</p><p>2) Clouds of white smoke when pushing your engine hard, or at idle/startup. This means your rubber o-rings are leaking and coolant and water is leaking into the combustion chamber. Burnt coolant willl give a sweet smell.</p><p>3) Clouds of blueish smoke. Could even be the turbo seals.</p><p></p><p>Ways to avoid these problems:</p><p>1) as 13btt said, don't run lean basically</p><p>2) Keep your eye on water temperature. If it starts to climb rapidly, pull over STRAIGHT AWAY. I don't care if you're on the motorway, just do it! (lol) You really need an aftermarket water temp sensor, as the factory one is bad, only has 3 basic readings: 1)Cold 2)Normal 3)You just fried your engine </p><p>The Front, Intermediate, and End housings are cast iron, whilst the rotor housings are alloy. If a great source of heat is present(e.g. your radiator has a leak and all the water/coolant leaks out, running your cooling system empty), this will result in the housings expanding/contracting at different rates, which can cause warping of the housings. The o-rings are very close the the combustion chamber, and are suceptible (s.p?) to high temps of heat, causing faster wear. They are pretty thin peices of rubber you know...</p><p></p><p>oh man... so much typing again... sorry guys : (</p><p></p><p>if i made any mistakes or left anything out, feel free to let me know, it's 2.32am ,so don't blame me eh?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="kuroneko, post: 956044, member: 19668"] 13btt has really gone indepth about the apex seals. Typically, through normal wear and tear, 2mm (factory spec) seals will last around 110,000km for turbo rotaries, and around 160,000km non turbo (although both cases I have heard much higher). Basically, if you look after your RE, it will look after you. And about this common misconception about the RE being "fragile", it is the biggest pile of horse shit I've ever hear. A rotor can take the thrashing, any time, any day. So long as you 1) Give it sufficient warm up time from a cold start (1-2 mins should be good) 2) Have reliabilty mods (straight through exhaust, air filter, possibly a good aluminium radiator if it really gets hot, and obviously boost gage and aftermarket water temp) 3) MAINTAINENCE. Do your oil change, coolant top up, check spark plugs etc REGULARLY. Signs of rough running, etc, will be easier to solve early on (before it turns into a big/expensive problem) There are 3 common things that could end in an engine failure: 1) Blown apex seal 2) Leaking O-rings/water rings 3) Leaking oil rings Symptoms: 1) as described by 13btt 2) Clouds of white smoke when pushing your engine hard, or at idle/startup. This means your rubber o-rings are leaking and coolant and water is leaking into the combustion chamber. Burnt coolant willl give a sweet smell. 3) Clouds of blueish smoke. Could even be the turbo seals. Ways to avoid these problems: 1) as 13btt said, don't run lean basically 2) Keep your eye on water temperature. If it starts to climb rapidly, pull over STRAIGHT AWAY. I don't care if you're on the motorway, just do it! (lol) You really need an aftermarket water temp sensor, as the factory one is bad, only has 3 basic readings: 1)Cold 2)Normal 3)You just fried your engine The Front, Intermediate, and End housings are cast iron, whilst the rotor housings are alloy. If a great source of heat is present(e.g. your radiator has a leak and all the water/coolant leaks out, running your cooling system empty), this will result in the housings expanding/contracting at different rates, which can cause warping of the housings. The o-rings are very close the the combustion chamber, and are suceptible (s.p?) to high temps of heat, causing faster wear. They are pretty thin peices of rubber you know... oh man... so much typing again... sorry guys : ( if i made any mistakes or left anything out, feel free to let me know, it's 2.32am ,so don't blame me eh? [/QUOTE]
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