Reply to thread

See what others are reading now! Try Forums > Current Activity

Message: <blockquote data-quote="seanlee" data-source="post: 1295443" data-attributes="member: 3607">1st.....FF car..normally setting is front abit highr then real....becoz when hard braking..you will saw engine weight tranfer front pressing more...it need space to brake down..that why you will saw....alot of RR or FR car have to adjust the real more higher.....2nd.......Do not lower your car too much! This perhaps is the number one no no. It is a symbol of a true rice-boy (not a racial slur, means all show no go, typical car that has $5000 bucks of wheels and tires, a big 5 inch tip, aero kit, a thumping stereo, vinyl graphics, no springs and not much else). Lowering looks really cool and can make a significant improvement to a cars cornering capability but going too low is detrimental to both handling and even safety. Going too low can cause bumpsteer, where the tie rods and control arms are traveling different arcs resulting in the wheels steering themselves with no steering wheel input. When a car is so low that the suspension bottoms under cornering loads, the end of the car that bottoms first will violently slide out. Super low guys are convinced that they are driving super touring cars but if you take them out on the track they will suck incredibly. Our SE-Rs are cursed with short travel suspension as it is and cannot take being lowered more than 1.5-2 inches at the most. So install some good springs such as Eibach, H&R or Ground Control and DO NOT CUT THEM MORE TO MAKE YOUR CAR LOWER. If you have the Ground Control springs do not adjust them to lower your car more than two inches except if you are going to compete in car shows where the car will be a stationary display. i`m driving a WISe too, but wise came with R3 tune handling.....it respond really good then normal...the suspension setup is just like waja....and you will notive at the front absorber...compare with 1.6 wira and 1.5 wira..is totally different... alot of people thinkinf cutting the spring..but out think..did you know that....when you travel..in highway...when reach some uneven road...you will feel like flying..and not holding the road...worst if the workmanship..not good...the spring will came out from the bush or compount from absorber.....then came to damper rate..will be change..and in short time your suspension will be gone!.... 3th....... you want to lower ..plus comfort......you can if you dun mind hitting your car on the bump...with you lower..you need more harden spring....or abosober...to support..so that your car will not touch the bump....if you want comfort..mean ...softer sprinig and absorber will be using....well to balance it 2...you can get a hilo softhard....suspension or.....HOTBIT customize..or TITAN.....will do... 4th........If you are using high performance springs, try to wait until you can afford the shocks also. Performance springs store more potential energy when they are compressed. They need a shock with more rebound damping to keep the car from bouncing all over the place after you hit a bump. Really good shocks like Koni or GAB’s are adjustable so you can tune your shocks to the springs. Performance springs with stock shocks usually feel floaty on high speed undulations. I find that that feels a little spooky. Performance spring’s quicker rebound characteristics also seems to wear out stock shocks quickly making them get super floaty. I prefer GAB’s because of their easy adjustably (Koni’s require removal from the car to adjust them) and durability. In IMSA racing other brands of shocks would be shot after one race. GAB’s would last a whole season. Tokico’s are inexpensive but don’t last as long. They also seem to have too much compression damping and not enough rebound in my opinion so they are harsh but floaty. ... damn you guy..make mean like Ah po!!!..telling so much story...anyway.....just short advice...do not cut your spring no matter good or not...if you cut...your handling will end up worst then stock... if still want more story..i tell later..hahahahah..coz i play onlyhandling on my car...</blockquote>

Verification

The Marketplace Latest

R35 GTR 2020 Original Rim Wheels
- Started by aycy
- Chassis and Wheels
Greddy Trust R35 Y Pipe GTR GTR35 Exhaust Used
- Started by aycy
- Exterior and Body
Nissan Silvia S15 Door Trim Card Panel Bride
- Started by aycy
- Interior and Cockpit
Atlas Force UHP Used Tire Tyre 275 35 20
- Started by aycy
- Chassis and Wheels
R35 GTR Ohlins Adjustable Suspension
- Started by aycy
- Chassis and Wheels
Nismo LMGT4 40th Anniversary 18x9.5+12 White
- Started by aycy
- Chassis and Wheels
Rays G025 18 inch VW Audi S3 A45 CLA45 Golf MK7 MK8 Rim
- Started by aycy
- Chassis and Wheels
S13 S14 S15 Used Drift Rim Tire Set
- Started by aycy
- Chassis and Wheels
R35 Used Titanium Exhaust
- Started by aycy
- Engine and Performance
PWR FL5 / FK8 Street Radiator 42MM
- Started by aycy
- Engine and Performance

Posts refresh every 5 minutes

what ecu for b18c?

hi was just wondering what ecu i should run on a b18c using emanage, for best tuning.

should i run a :

b16a chipped
b16b stock
or
b18c stock

thanks alot.

Singapore denies no time to prepare track for F1 race

https://www.zerotohundred.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/singapore-f1-600x333.jpg

Singapore will be hosting the Youth Olympic Games at the end of August at the same Marina Bay area as the F1 race. This has raised...

CD5A 4G93T (WOT problem)

Hi guys,

Have gotten into some problems with the car jerking when WOT.

Engine - CD5A 4G93T
Stock form
ECU: 5663
Manual (if that helps..)

When WOT, I noticed that the boost comes in much earlier but the car is not...