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*Idle Problem*Do you encounter this?
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<blockquote data-quote="bnr_32" data-source="post: 4494933" data-attributes="member: 11908"><p>then u should visit your tuner bro.. no need for dyno just remap on the idle side </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>yes it should be no prob if using v-pro like bro pimpin said<span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver">basically its the same thing interm of functionality.. its a sensor thats ecu use to determine the engine load and how much air is entering the engine and so it can give the rite amount of fuel and ignition timing.. the difference is how the sensor works.. MAP is manifold absolute pressure.. the sensor position is at the intake manifold after throttle body and it sense pressure.. MAF sensor is mass air flow and sometime called AFM that is air flow meter.. its located before the throttle body and it sense air flow</span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver">u need to adjust the the setting of your eids for it to work bro.. not just by turning the adjustment screw behind the unit as u like n feel.. u need to have a timing light and a wideband o2 meter (if u dont have wbo2 go get a cheap multimeter that can read volt).. remember that when u do an adjustment to the eids u actually altering the signal from your maf to your ecu.. thats mean u r altering your fulling n ignition timing on idle.. u need to refer to your wbo2 meter when adjusting eids to have your air fuel ratio right.. when u get your afr right then u need to reset back your ignition timing base when idle to 20btdc (rb26) using a timing light n turning your CAS (cam angle sensor)</span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver"></span></p><p><span style="color: Silver">this is y your engine stall.. u need to know y venting out the bov stall your engine.. aftermarket bov have stiffer spring rate then normal bov thus making wat u call earlier as back pressure to your turbo.. picture this, when u closed your throttle the remaining pressurized air in your turbo piping have no where to go accept to vent out trough your bov.. if you using a stiffer bov spring rate (such as aftermarket or even worse racing bov) the bov valve will not open much and will close faster thus not allowing much air to escape trough it.. so the remaining pressurize air will go back to your turbo and pass trough your MAF before escape trough your airfilter.. remember how MAF works.. it sense how much air is passing trough it.. more air pass means more fuel ecu will give.. when u close your throttle your engine actually need the ecu to cut the supply of fuel to the engine.. but in your case the ecu actually give more fuel when u closed your throttle (coz back pressure air passing trough your MAF) thus making your afr super rich n stall your engine.. so by tighten you bov u r making it much worse</span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bnr_32, post: 4494933, member: 11908"] then u should visit your tuner bro.. no need for dyno just remap on the idle side yes it should be no prob if using v-pro like bro pimpin said[COLOR="Silver"] basically its the same thing interm of functionality.. its a sensor thats ecu use to determine the engine load and how much air is entering the engine and so it can give the rite amount of fuel and ignition timing.. the difference is how the sensor works.. MAP is manifold absolute pressure.. the sensor position is at the intake manifold after throttle body and it sense pressure.. MAF sensor is mass air flow and sometime called AFM that is air flow meter.. its located before the throttle body and it sense air flow u need to adjust the the setting of your eids for it to work bro.. not just by turning the adjustment screw behind the unit as u like n feel.. u need to have a timing light and a wideband o2 meter (if u dont have wbo2 go get a cheap multimeter that can read volt).. remember that when u do an adjustment to the eids u actually altering the signal from your maf to your ecu.. thats mean u r altering your fulling n ignition timing on idle.. u need to refer to your wbo2 meter when adjusting eids to have your air fuel ratio right.. when u get your afr right then u need to reset back your ignition timing base when idle to 20btdc (rb26) using a timing light n turning your CAS (cam angle sensor) this is y your engine stall.. u need to know y venting out the bov stall your engine.. aftermarket bov have stiffer spring rate then normal bov thus making wat u call earlier as back pressure to your turbo.. picture this, when u closed your throttle the remaining pressurized air in your turbo piping have no where to go accept to vent out trough your bov.. if you using a stiffer bov spring rate (such as aftermarket or even worse racing bov) the bov valve will not open much and will close faster thus not allowing much air to escape trough it.. so the remaining pressurize air will go back to your turbo and pass trough your MAF before escape trough your airfilter.. remember how MAF works.. it sense how much air is passing trough it.. more air pass means more fuel ecu will give.. when u close your throttle your engine actually need the ecu to cut the supply of fuel to the engine.. but in your case the ecu actually give more fuel when u closed your throttle (coz back pressure air passing trough your MAF) thus making your afr super rich n stall your engine.. so by tighten you bov u r making it much worse[/COLOR] [/QUOTE]
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*Idle Problem*Do you encounter this?