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Message: <blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2326895" data-attributes="member: 27518">if you go higher, you get more torque, but you need more RPM to get the speed.I can plonk in 5.0 in my Y21 (assuming I can actually make the gear clear the housing, and I'd get more torque to the tires but it would seriously kill my top speed.) 2nd gear won't even touch 100kmh! LOL!Biggest I've seen is 4.9.. never seen (or heard of) the KAAZ 5.0.. and if your car can really rev up to 9/9.5K, you could have retained your GSR ratios and used that, but unfortunately, you don't have a dyno, so you don't know your torque... If your torque peaks at 6-7K, I think your acceleration will suffer if you use ratios that are more for high RPM..Remember that most hondas have peak at about 6-7K when stock, so revving up higher usually doesn't result in better acceleration.As for the torque, in drag, only the first gear sees pre-5K torque, as the rest, you're already at more than 5K rpm (or 6K, if you're running different ratios than the standard one), so that 5-9.5Krpm torque range is what's going to make your car go.Which is why a non rev limited B16A (temporary chipped ECU while waiting for Hon'tada')still makan asap at 9K (or course, that was during a side by side with a friend's 500whp evo.. hahaha, unbelievable, but it was a fun fun impromptu thing while going for TT.) I think you might have seen it at links when it was tuned by the Japanese.Only the first gear I could pull ahead slightly, but as soon as I past the 7K rev limit.. kena tinggal already. (only tested 1st and 2nd gear, but at 2nd, I was like 3 cars behind already.. ha ha)Ok, so it wasn't a fair test.. LOL...IMO,If ITR stock ratios.. for those car that have peak torque at 6-7K, and then takes a nosedive (valve float/flow issues/whatever), Mampos!.If I'm building a high rev engine, I'd target peak torque at 8-8.5K, rev limit it to 9.5K, and use the stock ITR gearbox..I think for most people successful in drag, their peak torque is usually at 7K or more, or at least have no significant loss of torque past 7K. Mine.. about 7-7.5K, which is how I got the 160whp, but after that, nosedive! I only get 130whp or so at pre-8.5K...Anyway, how are the valve springs holding up? It was a cheapo idea of mine for those sticking with minor mods. I think at 9K, you'd already be suffering from valve float issues.But from your plans of doing it slow, I already said you should have gone with aftermarket ones.. that is only for budget modders sticking with B16A with mild mods. My friend and I sorta thought you wanted to go further, which is why my friend was quite set on convincing you to use aftermarket v/s.But I'd beware of using 2nd hand aftermarket v/s though.. stress crack on one of the springs = no engine, and you know as well as I do that previous owners of aftermarket valvesprings don't drive 'casually'.. LOL.</blockquote>