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Cleaning Throttle Body & ICSV
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<blockquote data-quote="EFN" data-source="post: 549308" data-attributes="member: 1416"><p>Halo fren, TQ for the support and queries.</p><p></p><p>Ah yes earlier I was in a rush so I didn't quite explain what have to be done.</p><p></p><p><strong>To open the whole throttle body assembly you will need:</strong></p><p>1. 8mm 9 Inch T Hex (I custom made mine)</p><p>2. 5 Inch T Wrench with Socket (Custom Made again)</p><p>3. 10 and 12mm Socket</p><p>4. Pliers & Nose Pliers</p><p>5. Screwdrivers</p><p>6. Carb Cleaner and Lacquer Thinner for finishing.</p><p><strong>7. Air Gun</strong></p><p>8. <strong>VERY</strong> Strong 12mm Ratchet Wrench</p><p>9. Working Lamp</p><p>10. LOTS of patience and a box of cigarettes - where applicable hahahaha</p><p></p><p><strong>How to open?:</strong></p><p>- Air Box & Air Pipe assembly comes off first</p><p>- Intake Plenum Cover Second</p><p>- Right Side Vacuum hoses & metal fitting third</p><p>- Curved Internal Trumpets fourth</p><p>- Lower Intake Plenum fifth</p><p>- Left Side Vacuum hoses sixt</p><p>- Throttle linkages seventh</p><p>- Fuel lines eight</p><p>- THEN....</p><p></p><p>The most utterly difficult part is to remove EIGHT super tight 12mm bolts from the throttle body mount. This is where the custom T wrench and Super Strong Ratchet Wrench required - without them it is near impossible to open because four of the bolts are placed deep below the throttle bodies. You take care of this the whole throttle body assembly will come off easily.</p><p></p><p><strong>Last,</strong></p><p>Before u can take out the throttle body assembly, you will have to reach low on the block body to remove Intake Plenum stand which is on the left side. There u go. Proceed with cleaing like nobody business hahahahaha.</p><p></p><p>Of course, I use a Carb Cleaner together with<span style="color: red"> High Pressure Air Gun</span> from a Compressor to do the cleaning on <strong>EVERY</strong> nook and crannies of the Vacuum Passages. Spray the carb cleaner and then pressurized them in using air gun. Repeat until u can see that no dark liquid coming out from the other end.</p><p></p><p><strong>Clean the whole head?</strong> bugger I plan to totally remove the head quite soon. Oh yes we all know about the notoriously noisy VVT pulley and 20V Shims - And honestly I love the DIESEL sound of it - any hardcore 4A-GE enthusiast should be loving it too hahahahaha - makes 20V very unique.</p><p></p><p>DIY head porting? oh yes that can be done too hahahaaha. use kikir and tooth brush to do it hahahahaha</p><p></p><p><span style="color: red"><strong>RESULTS:</strong></span></p><p>I can confirm today that my idling problems are <strong>TOTALLY GONE</strong> - NO more engine dying in the middle of hot sunny day jams, RPM remains stable at 800-850 ranges (I use digital RSM). And I swear that acceleration has improved dramatically too. FYI I reset my ECU after cleaning so that it will be forced to recalculate AFR MAP based on the improved vacuum travel and air intake.</p><p></p><p>Too much hassle to do this by yourself? gimme a call budies hahahahaha</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="EFN, post: 549308, member: 1416"] Halo fren, TQ for the support and queries. Ah yes earlier I was in a rush so I didn't quite explain what have to be done. [b]To open the whole throttle body assembly you will need:[/b] 1. 8mm 9 Inch T Hex (I custom made mine) 2. 5 Inch T Wrench with Socket (Custom Made again) 3. 10 and 12mm Socket 4. Pliers & Nose Pliers 5. Screwdrivers 6. Carb Cleaner and Lacquer Thinner for finishing. [b]7. Air Gun[/b] 8. [b]VERY[/b] Strong 12mm Ratchet Wrench 9. Working Lamp 10. LOTS of patience and a box of cigarettes - where applicable hahahaha [b]How to open?:[/b] - Air Box & Air Pipe assembly comes off first - Intake Plenum Cover Second - Right Side Vacuum hoses & metal fitting third - Curved Internal Trumpets fourth - Lower Intake Plenum fifth - Left Side Vacuum hoses sixt - Throttle linkages seventh - Fuel lines eight - THEN.... The most utterly difficult part is to remove EIGHT super tight 12mm bolts from the throttle body mount. This is where the custom T wrench and Super Strong Ratchet Wrench required - without them it is near impossible to open because four of the bolts are placed deep below the throttle bodies. You take care of this the whole throttle body assembly will come off easily. [b]Last,[/b] Before u can take out the throttle body assembly, you will have to reach low on the block body to remove Intake Plenum stand which is on the left side. There u go. Proceed with cleaing like nobody business hahahahaha. Of course, I use a Carb Cleaner together with[color=red] High Pressure Air Gun[/color] from a Compressor to do the cleaning on [b]EVERY[/b] nook and crannies of the Vacuum Passages. Spray the carb cleaner and then pressurized them in using air gun. Repeat until u can see that no dark liquid coming out from the other end. [b]Clean the whole head?[/b] bugger I plan to totally remove the head quite soon. Oh yes we all know about the notoriously noisy VVT pulley and 20V Shims - And honestly I love the DIESEL sound of it - any hardcore 4A-GE enthusiast should be loving it too hahahahaha - makes 20V very unique. DIY head porting? oh yes that can be done too hahahaaha. use kikir and tooth brush to do it hahahahaha [color=red][b]RESULTS:[/b][/color] I can confirm today that my idling problems are [b]TOTALLY GONE[/b] - NO more engine dying in the middle of hot sunny day jams, RPM remains stable at 800-850 ranges (I use digital RSM). And I swear that acceleration has improved dramatically too. FYI I reset my ECU after cleaning so that it will be forced to recalculate AFR MAP based on the improved vacuum travel and air intake. Too much hassle to do this by yourself? gimme a call budies hahahahaha [/QUOTE]
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