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Message: <blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2159760" data-attributes="member: 27518">hahaha.. you said something about B20B strokers in a B16A block?one thing about the B20B stroker setup is the rods.. I wonder what kind of rods they're using..for example, the B20B rod + crank = 227mm, and with the wrist pin at the standard height on the piston, you'd get the piston edges just at the same height with the block deck.. now you know why big stroke = longer cyclinder liners.Say if you want to use a slightly longer rod at 139mm, your piston edges would come out 1mm from the block, and a way to get around this is using custom pistons with the wrist pin located 1mm higher than stock, so your piston edges would be level with the edge of the block.Some special aftermarket pistons have the wrist pins sitting on the oil scraper rings on the pistons, in order to use longer rods in a block with big strokes that doesn't allow the use of longer rods without some ingenuity. The theoretical limit on these are the length of your piston skirts due to clearance issues.Full skirt pistons usually can't have wrist pins higher past the oil ring for this reason, which is why some race pistons with high wrist pins are either half skirt or skirtless (F1, anyone?).. according to chris, the skirts also affect friction, so that's another reason for the short skirt/long skirt thing.. so, consider the height of the liner in a stock B16A block, which can be estimated by the total height of the crank + rod = 211.8 mm (which is why the B16A block is shorter, because it doesn't need the long cyclinder liners like the typeR/B20s.So, if you plonk in a B20B crank, you have to address these a few issues.a) rod length = with a b20b crank, 211.8 - 89mm = 122.8mm, which means you need a rod of that length so that the piston doesn't come past the block deck at TDC.. (r/s ratio of this setup will be 1.379:1 You can also run the higher wrist pin pistons I mentioned to use slightly longer rods, but the r/s ratio will still stay somewhere in the 1.4:1 range, if I remember right, since I did consider this setup a while back, like maybe a year ago or so.I didn't go for it because of the higher wrist pin location = burning oil.. prepare to frequently top up engine oil.AFAIK, I can't find any oem cranks that come close to the 122.8, the closest would be 131.9 of the USDM B17A. so assuming you'd use that, you'd be looking at a r/s ratio of 1.48, which sounds quite near b20B's r/s ratio at 1.53.. now the problem would be needing pistons that has the wrist pin 9.1mm higher than the stock wrist pin location.b) crank clearance....this one.. I think maybe okay, but the counter weights might kiss the oil squirters, I think.c) wrist pin location/shorter rods? .. this one, see explanation above.Easy to guess the setup based on a few variables, don't you think?Still it could be a B16B paku'ed with B16A running B20B crank.. cheaper what.</blockquote>

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