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Alternator versus Battery
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<blockquote data-quote="Izso" data-source="post: 1064588596" data-attributes="member: 2429"><p>It's not that dramatic la. ECUs come with built in spike resistance to some degree. But you're right about the battery acting as a capacitor though. But it's a good way to test whether the alternator is working or not. In my opinion there's 2 main things that'll affect 'transients' to give out bad data. Insufficient current/voltage and lack of/poor grounding. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Jedi : I used to use a NS70 battery and a 90A alternator. The stock 70A alternator lasted for about 5 years before it gave up but only because the carbon inside it was completely worn out. My ICE power requirements are quite high which is why I needed a bigger current battery and alternator. You need to find a good alternator (recon or otherwise) and make sure your car is properly grounded. My guess is your car has been in some accident before and accident-cars tend to have bad grounding which is further compounded by the age of the car and probably worn out original grounding leads. </p><p></p><p>Imho recon alternators can't all be that bad so what I suggest you do : </p><p></p><p>- Get an aftermarket grounding kit installed and if you have one already make sure you didn't connect it in a loop which would short circuit your alternator or whatever. Dimming headlights, dashboard lights and all that is usually because of bad or worn out grounding. All cars come with stock grounding which is why you'll never see a new car with a GK having any improvements. An old car however will benefit from a GK since time will wear out everything.</p><p></p><p>- I had a aftermarket VS as well, this thing seemed to extend the life of my batteries, the batteries I use last minimally 2 years and I use dry-cell batteries. </p><p></p><p>Amongst all the electrical components in your car, the alternator is the highest current thing there and if that is breaking down all the time, something is causing it break down faster than it should. Either bad recon parts (which is rare) or short circuiting somewhere or bad grounding. </p><p></p><p>Oh what's more I had a direct charging cable from the alternator to the battery too. Faster charge to the battery so that gave me more punchier bass. If my electrical system failed a lot of things would have fried but it didn't.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Izso, post: 1064588596, member: 2429"] It's not that dramatic la. ECUs come with built in spike resistance to some degree. But you're right about the battery acting as a capacitor though. But it's a good way to test whether the alternator is working or not. In my opinion there's 2 main things that'll affect 'transients' to give out bad data. Insufficient current/voltage and lack of/poor grounding. Jedi : I used to use a NS70 battery and a 90A alternator. The stock 70A alternator lasted for about 5 years before it gave up but only because the carbon inside it was completely worn out. My ICE power requirements are quite high which is why I needed a bigger current battery and alternator. You need to find a good alternator (recon or otherwise) and make sure your car is properly grounded. My guess is your car has been in some accident before and accident-cars tend to have bad grounding which is further compounded by the age of the car and probably worn out original grounding leads. Imho recon alternators can't all be that bad so what I suggest you do : - Get an aftermarket grounding kit installed and if you have one already make sure you didn't connect it in a loop which would short circuit your alternator or whatever. Dimming headlights, dashboard lights and all that is usually because of bad or worn out grounding. All cars come with stock grounding which is why you'll never see a new car with a GK having any improvements. An old car however will benefit from a GK since time will wear out everything. - I had a aftermarket VS as well, this thing seemed to extend the life of my batteries, the batteries I use last minimally 2 years and I use dry-cell batteries. Amongst all the electrical components in your car, the alternator is the highest current thing there and if that is breaking down all the time, something is causing it break down faster than it should. Either bad recon parts (which is rare) or short circuiting somewhere or bad grounding. Oh what's more I had a direct charging cable from the alternator to the battery too. Faster charge to the battery so that gave me more punchier bass. If my electrical system failed a lot of things would have fried but it didn't. [/QUOTE]
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