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<blockquote data-quote="Izso" data-source="post: 1064564885" data-attributes="member: 2429"><p>Pity Drexchan's Wira got stolen. He had a pretty interesting intake setup with his open pod being in his bumper and super long runners. Awesome pickup throughout the rev ranges.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Start by deciding on a budget. Then can correspond easily.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Assuming you have an unlimited budget and want to retain the 3-speed auto like what I did, this is what you can do : </p><p></p><p>1. PNP the head. Get a spare head to do this and fully skim max until 1.5mm left (to allow for one more skim). Get the intake ports grooved and get the Singh groove done too. Google these two up.</p><p></p><p>2. Forged 77mm CP Pistons and conrods. If you can't afford this then CPS 77mm pistons taken from the Saga 1.6. Cheap pistons. Pair it with the 4G18 Waja crankshaft. Fitting these pistons will require you to overbore the block cylinders to fit so take this opportunity to fit in strong sleeves.</p><p></p><p>3. Get oversized valves, grind fit them then get the Power Lynz done. (Look it up in Google) </p><p></p><p>4. Oversize the injectors to 180cc and install a good fuel pressure regulator. </p><p></p><p>5. Change to the Proton CFE radiator. It's thicker and bigger than stock and it's pnp for Wira autos. Consider changing to a high speed fan too.</p><p></p><p>6. Change to a low temp thermostat and install a water temp and oil temp meter.</p><p></p><p>7. Balance all engine components like the crankshaft + lightened crank pulley + torque convertor (as one piece) and lighten everything. </p><p></p><p>8. Install a mild billet cam shaft + adjustable cam pulley. Don't go for regrind and forget about overly aggressive high cam shafts.</p><p></p><p>9. I have PTFE sheets which you can cut and use as a gasket for your intake manifold to the cylinder head - keeps the manifold cool therefore the air inside cool too. </p><p></p><p>10. Swap out your entire exhaust. 4-2-1 headers, flexible joint, resonator or high flow catcon then a proper s-flow rear muffler all piping 2". Wrap your header with titanium exhaust wrap (easier to work with than fiberglass) or consider ceramic coating it. Mild white steel piping is enough.</p><p></p><p>11. Swap out front and rear brakes to GSR brakes and add a brake stopper kit for stock servo. I didn't want "stop/go" brakes so I used stock servo which was more than enough for me. GSR calipers will comfortably fit in 15" rims and are bigger than stock brakes. Get good brake pads like Ferodo / EBC / Trestor Blue advantage / etc. Get good steel braided brake hoses.</p><p></p><p>12. Add 22mm front ARB and 19mm rear ARB. Add room bar, front tower strut (4pt), rear tower strut (2pt), side bars and fender bars.</p><p></p><p>13. Consider fully adjustable suspension like the BC Racing h/l/s/h with 6k front and 4k rear springs. Or Koni yellow + Eibach prokit. </p><p></p><p>14. Install a ATF cooler and use good SPIII oil like those from Redline or Motul. Otherwise stick with Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII.</p><p></p><p>15. Upgrade your ignition coil to MSD (if no budget keep it stock) and change the plug cables to something more higher output like MSD cables or the BSI ones I was on and pair it with long lasting spark plugs like the Iridiums. </p><p></p><p>16. Lastly, lightweight 15" rims plus good tyres is very useful. You'd be surprised how much better FC you'll get just with rims alone. Less effort to move, less effort to stop and no need to brake in corners <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":biggrin:" title="Biggrin :biggrin:" data-shortname=":biggrin:" /></p><p></p><p>Oh ya last upgrade that does nothing to improve your car whatsoever - tint. Sure makes driving the car a lot nicer. Once you've done all that then you'd have everything I ever had in my car. Except for the manual GB. That was the last thing did.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Izso, post: 1064564885, member: 2429"] Pity Drexchan's Wira got stolen. He had a pretty interesting intake setup with his open pod being in his bumper and super long runners. Awesome pickup throughout the rev ranges. Start by deciding on a budget. Then can correspond easily. Assuming you have an unlimited budget and want to retain the 3-speed auto like what I did, this is what you can do : 1. PNP the head. Get a spare head to do this and fully skim max until 1.5mm left (to allow for one more skim). Get the intake ports grooved and get the Singh groove done too. Google these two up. 2. Forged 77mm CP Pistons and conrods. If you can't afford this then CPS 77mm pistons taken from the Saga 1.6. Cheap pistons. Pair it with the 4G18 Waja crankshaft. Fitting these pistons will require you to overbore the block cylinders to fit so take this opportunity to fit in strong sleeves. 3. Get oversized valves, grind fit them then get the Power Lynz done. (Look it up in Google) 4. Oversize the injectors to 180cc and install a good fuel pressure regulator. 5. Change to the Proton CFE radiator. It's thicker and bigger than stock and it's pnp for Wira autos. Consider changing to a high speed fan too. 6. Change to a low temp thermostat and install a water temp and oil temp meter. 7. Balance all engine components like the crankshaft + lightened crank pulley + torque convertor (as one piece) and lighten everything. 8. Install a mild billet cam shaft + adjustable cam pulley. Don't go for regrind and forget about overly aggressive high cam shafts. 9. I have PTFE sheets which you can cut and use as a gasket for your intake manifold to the cylinder head - keeps the manifold cool therefore the air inside cool too. 10. Swap out your entire exhaust. 4-2-1 headers, flexible joint, resonator or high flow catcon then a proper s-flow rear muffler all piping 2". Wrap your header with titanium exhaust wrap (easier to work with than fiberglass) or consider ceramic coating it. Mild white steel piping is enough. 11. Swap out front and rear brakes to GSR brakes and add a brake stopper kit for stock servo. I didn't want "stop/go" brakes so I used stock servo which was more than enough for me. GSR calipers will comfortably fit in 15" rims and are bigger than stock brakes. Get good brake pads like Ferodo / EBC / Trestor Blue advantage / etc. Get good steel braided brake hoses. 12. Add 22mm front ARB and 19mm rear ARB. Add room bar, front tower strut (4pt), rear tower strut (2pt), side bars and fender bars. 13. Consider fully adjustable suspension like the BC Racing h/l/s/h with 6k front and 4k rear springs. Or Koni yellow + Eibach prokit. 14. Install a ATF cooler and use good SPIII oil like those from Redline or Motul. Otherwise stick with Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII. 15. Upgrade your ignition coil to MSD (if no budget keep it stock) and change the plug cables to something more higher output like MSD cables or the BSI ones I was on and pair it with long lasting spark plugs like the Iridiums. 16. Lastly, lightweight 15" rims plus good tyres is very useful. You'd be surprised how much better FC you'll get just with rims alone. Less effort to move, less effort to stop and no need to brake in corners :biggrin: Oh ya last upgrade that does nothing to improve your car whatsoever - tint. Sure makes driving the car a lot nicer. Once you've done all that then you'd have everything I ever had in my car. Except for the manual GB. That was the last thing did. [/QUOTE]
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